Question 1.
What were the ‘Sumptuary Laws’ in France?
Answer:
From about 1294 to the time of the French Revolution in 1789, the people of France were expected to strictly follow some dress codes. These dress codes or laws related to wearing of clothes were known as ‘Sumptuary Laws’. Following were the major features of these laws:

• The laws tried to control the behaviour of those considered social inferiors, preventing them from wearing certain clothes, consuming certain foods and beverages (usually this referred to alcohol) and hunting game in certain areas.
• In medieval France, the items of clothing a person could purchase per Year was regulated, not only by income but also by social rank.
• The material to be used for clothing was also legally prescribed. Only royalty could wear ^expensive materials like ermine and fur or silk, velvet and brocade. Other classes were debarred from clothing themselves with materials that were associated with the aristocracy.

Question 2.
Give any two examples of the ways in which European dress codes were different from Indian dress codes.
Answer:
In different cultures, specific items of clothing often convey different messages. This was also true in case of European dress codes and Indian dress codes.

• Turban and hat: According to western traditions, a hat had to be removed before social superiors as a sign of respect. But in India, the turban was not just for protection from the heat but it was a sign of respectability and could not be removed at will. The British felt offended if the Indians did not take off their turbans when they met British officials.
• Use of shoes: When the British established their rule in India, they insisted that the Indians should take off their shoes as a sign of respect to the British officials. Many Indians, especially the government servants, were increasingly uncomfortable with such rule.

Question 3.
‘Though there were no formal sumptuary laws in India but it had its own strict social codes of food and dress’. Explain by giving examples.
Answer:

• During the 18th and 19th centuries the caste system in India was very rigid. The caste system clearly defined what subordinate and dominant caste Hindus should wear, eat, etc. and these codes had the force of law. No caste or community was allowed to overlook these codes. For example, when the lower caste people belonging to Shanar caste tried to cover their upper body they were attacked by Nairs, an upper caste.
• When in 1820 Shanar women tried to wear tailored blouses and clothes they‘were attacked by the Nairs. Even complaints were filed in the court against this dress change and Governor of Travancore issued a proclamation ordering Shanar women to abstain in future from covering the upper parts of the body.
• The abolition of slavery in travancore in 1855 led to even more frustration among the upper castes. In October 1859, riots broke out and Governor was forced to issue proclamation permitting Shanar women, whether Christian or Hindu to wear a jacket or cover their upper bodies in any manner whatever but not like the women of high castes.

Question 4.
Explain the reasons for the changes in clothing patterns and materials in the 18th century,
Answer:

• Revolution: There were many restrictions on the French people regarding the dress codes. These were known as sumptuary laws. But after the French Revolution of 1789 many restrictions imposed on clothes were lifted.
• Trade: There was also a change in the clothing pattern because of trade. Now people had more choices and variety of clothes.
• Spread of democratic ideas: During the 18th century democratic ideas were also spreading in different parts of the world. Democracy Jay stress on equality as a result of which all citizens were given the choice to wear whatever they like.
• War: Clothes got shorter, simpler and less colourful because of the two world wars.

Question 5.
Explain the impact of World Wars on the clothing pattern of women.
Answer:

• Women and work: Before the First World War most of the women in Europe were not working in factories.
  But by 1917, more than 7,00,000 women in Britain were employed in ammunition factories. As they were going to work they needed clothes that were comfortable and convenient. They started wearing a working uniform of blouse and trouser. Clothes became plainer and simpler. Skirts became shorter.
• No jewellery: Most of the working women stopped wearing jewellery and luxurious clothes.
• Change in school dress: Even schools started emphasising the importance of plain dressing, and. discouraged ornamentation. With the introduction of gymnastics and games women started wearing clothes that did not hamper movement.
• Change in colour: Before the war people used to wear bright coloured clothes but during the war bright colours faded from sight and only sober colours were worn. Thus clothes became plainer and simpler.

Question 6.
How did the French Revolution end all the distinctions imposed by the Sumptuary Laws? [CBSE 2015]
Answer:

• People started wearing clothing that was loose and comfortable.
• Blue, red and white colours became popular and were considered the signs of patriotism.
• Now the difference in dress was based on the earnings.
• Other political symbols too became a part of dress for example a red cap symbolised liberty.

Question 7.
Mention any three restrictions imposed on the common people of France from about 1294 to 1789.
Answer:

• Dress codes were sometimes imposed upon members of different layers of society through actual laws which were spelt out in some detail.”
• In medieval France, the items of clothing a person could purchase per year was regulated, not only by income but also by social rank.
• The material to be used for clothing was also legally prescribed. Only royalty could wear expensive materials like ermine and fur, or silk, velvet and brocade. Other classes were debarred from clothing themselves with materials that were associated with the aristocracy.

Question 8.
Why did Mahatma Gandhi’s dream of clothing the nation in Khadi became an appeal only to some sections of Indians?
Answer:
Mahatma Gandhi’s dream was to clothe the whole nation in Khadi. Though he succeeded using khadi as a source to inspire the Indian people but there were many with different opinions.

• The British machines made clothes which were much cheaper as compared to khadi. Poverty rate was very high in India, so most of the poor started adopting foreign clothes.
• The wealthy Parsis of western India: were among the first to adapt Western- style clothing because western clothes were a sign of modernity and progress.
• Though Motilal Nehru gave up his expensive Western-style suits and adopted the Indian dhoti and kurta but these were not made up of coarse material as suggested by Gandhiji.
• As the caste system in India was very rigid and the western dress style was for all, so many people adopted it for self-respect and equality.

Question 9
What were the changes that came to be seen in women’s clothing as a result of two World Wars? Explain. [CBSE March 2013]
Or
How were the two World Wars responsible in bringing changes in women’s clothing?
[CBSE March 2011, 13, 15]
Or
“Changes in women clothing came about as a result of two World Wars”. Explain the statement with examples. [CBSE March 2011]
Answer:

• Women and work: Before the First World War most of the women in Europe were not working in factories. But by 1917, more than 7,00,000 women in Britain were employed in ammunition factories. As they were going to work they needed clothes that were comfortable and convenient. They started wearing a working uniform of blouse and trouser.
  Clothes became plainer and simpler. Skirts became shorter.
• No jewellery: Most of the working women stopped wearing jewellery and luxurious clothes.
• Change in school dress: Even schools started emphasising the importance of plain dressing, and discouraged ornamentation. With the introduction of gymnastics and games women started wearing clothes that did not hamper movement.
• Change in colour: Before the War people used to wear bright coloured clothes but during the War bright colours faded from sight and only sober colours were worn. Thus, clothes became plainer and simpler.

Question 10.
Explain the ‘shoe respect’ controversy. [CBSE March 2013]
Answer:

• In different cultures, specific items of clothing often convey contrary meanings. This frequently leads to misunder-standing and conflict.
• At the beginning of the nineteenth century, it was customary for British officials to follow Indian customs and traditions and to remove their footwear in the courts of ruling kings or chiefs.
• In 1824-1828, Governor General Amherst insisted that Indians take their shoes off as a sign of respect when they appeared before him, but this was not strictly followed.
• By the mid-nineteenth century, when Lord Dalhousie was Governor-General, ‘shoe respect’ was made stricter, and Indians were made to take off their shoes when entering any government institution; only those who wore European clothes were exempted from this rule.
• Many Indian government servants were increasingly uncomfortable with these rules.

Important Link

Quick Revision Notes : Clothing: A Social History

NCERT Solution : Clothing: A Social History

MCQs: Clothing: A Social History

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